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mowing when reseeding existing grass

Once the seed is planned, it is important to set a thin layer of organic matter decomposed as compost / topsoil or planting mix Scotts available soil Nick. Now this may seem contradictory to all previous steps to remove any stubble, but it is very different. DECOMPOSED organic matter is actually very beneficial to our soils; adding nutrients and break the clay Colorado. When prevent top - dressing using a "hot" fertilizer can burn the tender roots, be sure to use a well-composted soil mix as Nick planter boss sold in bulk or Scotts seeding soil available in a bag. The soil layer will also protect your new bird seed and especially help retain moisture. Remember to use a thin layer. The compost should be about ? "thick. Any thicker than that and you run the risk of stifling grass seed, preventing germination.

Spring is the perfect time to plant on your lawn. Cool temperatures and humidity in the spring are ideal conditions for germination. Over seeding is generally defined as the casting seed on an existing lawn. This is a great way to add thickness to thinning area and rejuvenate older lawns with new more heat tolerant species and drought grass. Here in Colorado, we use cool season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, fescue and ryegrass. New mixtures of these herbs are continuously reared to help improve the color of the grass, the resistance of the flow, especially for Colorado, drought tolerance. Our Blue Carpet mixture, which consists of five different truths of Kentucky bluegrass is an excellent choice that will perform well in our climate. http://www.earthcarpet.com/products_blue_carpet.aspx

Adding organic matter can be done before laying the seed if you want to add more of a thin layer. This is called dressing and is a great idea to help combat poor soil profiles we face here in Colorado. It is important to remember that a thicker layer can stifle existing grass. We advise not to add more than one inch of organic matter LOOSE. Topsoil and topsoil / compost mixtures are much more dense and compact can choke your existing lawn. When you have completed the distribution of your top dressing, rake smooth. Bumps or bearish that are present will forever once your grass grows through it and the new grass seed takes root. When tilted, the new hardware is loose and grass seed can be spread directly on top of it and lightly watered. The water will run the new grass seed at the desired depth. If you decide to wait to spread your grass seed, re- searching the area or spread a thin layer of compost after the seed is distributed and Water.

Grass seed can take an average of 3-4 weeks to germinate. Meanwhile, it is preferable to maintain the flow out of the zone as far as possible. Newly germinated seedlings are delicate and when crushed can die completely. Sometimes it is better to place a temporary barrier around the area and seed the lawn in steps to keep you used lawn. Since the area of ??your new lawn will need to be protected from traffic ( and lawnmowers ) for a few weeks, it is a good idea to mow your lawn short before the sowing. This will also help your existing lawn avoid becoming tangled and it will push through the compost layer of protection you expected.

For broadcast seeding to be successful, the existing lawn should be grazed or mown short (so that you can see your position soles shoes standing on it ). During the fall, kill perennial weeds are present and apply lime and fertilizer recommendations based on current soil analyzes. Apply the seed from late January to early March ( depending on your situation ) when the grass is actively growing and when the soil still has a tendency to freeze. Seeding at this time is called " seeding \\ freeze" because night frosts followed by daytime thaws will bury the seeds to a depth of shallow sowing. It is essential that seeding occurs early enough that you still have several weeks of freezing and thawing to " plant " seed. Livestock leaving the area to walk in the seed may also help. This technique works and is fast, easy, inexpensive and can be done on steep rocky areas where tillage equipment can not be used.

In general, killing existing turf is best accomplished by the use of glyphosate or paraquat. For the two heads of series of the fall and spring, high rates of glyphosate are generally required to control both the grass turf and perennial broadleaf weeds. For spring seeding, glyphosate should be applied to the previous fall. Ideally, the grass must be mown or grazed prior to application to reduce surface residue. A short period of regeneration ( one week) is useful to ensure that the leaves actively growing are present to absorb the herbicide. In some cases it may be necessary to apply a second application of glyphosate at a lower rate or apply herbicides to control broad leaf appropriate certain perennial broadleaf weeds. Seeding should generally be delayed for at least seven days after application to allow the drying of weeds and grass and prevent competition with germinating seedlings. For fall planting, it is better to control broadleaf weeds in perennial leaves in spring and summer.

Sowing has a definite place in improving the quality of existing pastures and hay fields feed. No-till seeding can also be used to reseed completely stands of forage that have become unproductive. Forage stands can be improved by using seeding methods to add legumes to pure grass stands and strengthen the weak grass stands by the introduction of two legumes and / or grasses. The concept of non -till has more potential in the production of forage during the rotation of crop fields for grazing or hay production and when changing forage type held in the summer or winter in annual crop rotation system.

Fillings can also be sown in small grain stubble after harvesting silage or grain. If the silage harvest was made before the dough stage, wait 5 to 10 days to regrow develop and apply paraquat or glyphosate low return rate to burn regrowth and kill weed seedlings. If the harvest was made at dough stage or later, apply paraquat or glyphosate cheap rates immediately and seeds. Since the grain harvest is late spring, waiting until early August to spray paraquat or glyphosate and seeding of forages is generally preferable. Volunteer small grains should be mowed or pure legume stands can be killed with herbicide grass as Poast. Another option is to apply paraquat or glyphosate and foxtail seeds ( German) no-till millet instead fodder small-flowered after the harvest has been removed. The filling is then seeded in August after the harvest of millet as discussed earlier.

Sod is best used for establishing new lawns, but it can be used for the renovation if existing vegetation is removed and the underlying soil is plowed or cultivated core ( aerified ). Successful sodding requires good land to a turf contact, which promotes better rooting of the grass.

Above are the essential elements for the process known as dormant seeding. The degree of success of your dormant seedlings efforts depend on overwintering conditions granted to newly seeded areas. In most cases, the seed is better protected when we receive snowfall (s) that will cover and protect these areas during fluctuating weather conditions often encountered during a Minnesota winter. Even with proper preparation, it may still be necessary to do some spring seeding in areas with little grass emerges. If newly seeded areas seem to be a bit thin, you should not necessarily feel your autumn effort was a failure, because it is quite common to have to do some additional reseeding in spring. However, do not leave enough time for the seeds to come the following spring. Do not be too eager to get in and start tearing things; you just might be destroying all the good work done the previous fall.

I received many owners of questions recently about the autumn sowing options if they missed the optimum planting window from mid August to mid September. If you miss this window, but you still want to conduct seeding practices this fall, my recommendation is to wait until November to seed. This practice is called " dormant seeding " and is certainly an effective way to introduce new species and / or varieties of grass in your existing lawn.

Dormant seeding is to put down seed while the ground is not frozen, but cold enough for germination of grass seed will not take place until next spring when the soil begins to warm. In fact, the seeds that germinate later in the season, often do not survive the winter because the very young, immature plants have a hard time to survive these difficult conditions. Other than the time of year of dormant seeding, the actual process of preparing the area to be sown is virtually identical to the establishment of grass from seed at other times of the year.

The success of any grass seeding process depends largely on the good seed soil contact. Therefore, the first step in the preparation of the area is to loosen the soil surface so that the seed can be easily integrated in the area half inch or two loose soil. Small bare areas of soil or even a thin lawn stand can be readily prepared by using a hand rake. The largest sparse grass surfaces can be prepared by mild to go over the surface with a power rake or vertical mower available from most rental agencies. Set the blades just deep enough to penetrate up? inch or so of soil. This will also help to eliminate small thatch layers which may be present, as well as the dead parts of the grass plants laying on the soil surface.

If your soil is in very poor condition, you may need to add some compost or new soil to prepare it for new grass seed. It will also depend on the type of soil you have and where you check your local animal nursery or garden center for advice on the type of soil you have. In some cases, a lawn "renovation" is complete order, which involves killing the existing lawn completely, soil work, flattening the area and reseeding from scratch.

If your lawn has brown spots, bare spots or thinning, it can be rebooted from time to reach a lush, healthy lawn. Seeding or overseeding takes some preparation and planning, but can improve your curb appeal, the value of your home and even your relationship with your neighbors.

If there is excessive thatch, which is dead grass and roots, you may need to rent a power rake or thatcher to remove dead matter. If this is too daunting or physical a task, most lawn care companies offer aeration and services stubble. Lawn experts recommend performing this maintenance on your lawn every few years to ensure a sound basis for your lawn.

While your new lawn becomes established, avoid heavy traffic trying to keep pets and children away until it is strong and healthy. Be sure to maintain your newly refurbished lawn by mowing regularly, applying weed and feed, and keeping it watered during droughts or hot weather.

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